My day as a street vendor

“No vas a la universidad para vender cosas conmigo.”

Gerardo joked, half serious as we loaded his van with bags of beachwear and sunglasses. “You don’t attend a university to sell things with me.” We just finished a full day of street hassling and selling in the local beach walk in , Progreso, Yucatán. Only 7 hours ago I was one of the tourists passing by until we befriended each other and I offered to help maintain the tiendita- “little shop”- so that he could get lunch. Putting my Spanish skills and friendly nature to good use, I was able to sell a couple things and decided to continue with the business.

Observing Gerardo, I learned the tricks of the trade- always start with the special qualities of the items. We disbanded with plans for next time, I would go home practice a few Spanish songs to put my singing into use and bring my art tools to make crafts to sell the following week. I laughed at the fact that I actually considered enrolling into a Spanish immersion program until I met Gerardo as the perfect teacher. Not only teaching me fast local Spanish but also showing the ways of his culture- the shadow side of the struggles that tourists and exchange students are not offered first hand. I sweated under the scorching sun and my mouth became dried of saliva from having to yell “Sombreros y lentes” for a hundred times. I was so happy each time I was able to help Gerardo secure clients, some of whom were quite amused that I was his “hija adoptiva.” However, reality sets in again when it was time to close down the shop- the mini-canopy came down in matter of 10 minutes and Gerardo was off in his old van to pick up his wife and son also selling things on the same street few couple blocks away.

And I to dinner with a view of the ocean sunset, finding a cheap order from the menu knowing how hard money is earned.

Dinner with a view

My view while having dinner and reflecting on the stark differences between the two worlds I experienced that day.

Dinner served with insect repellent

My dinner of Chicken Pibil, a traditional Maya dish, in banana leaves. Meal casually comes with mosquito repellent. I came home with 4 giant bumps on my legs that made me wonder whether I've contracted Zika.

Gerardo and his "shop"

I learned more from my friend here in a day than a few months at the university.

Closing time

The shop during closing time condenses to 4 bags.

Progreso beach

Happy tourists at the beach. A tent? I guess beach umbrellas are old news.

During my time as Gerardo's assistant, I interacted with many Mexican tourists. I learned from Gerardo that the American cruises come on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Meanwhile, the place is mostly crowded with local and Mexican people. Progresso, even if "less clean and less advanced" than resorts like Cancún, is calm and affordable for middle class. First and foremost, it is a working class town since it is a pier where many commercial goods come through. Gerardo himself started selling puppets in Cancún since he was a 7-year old boy, and moved to Progresso when Cancún became too much for him.

I am very grateful for this Sunday. Not only was I able to get errands done (documents copied and pictures taken for the Instituto Nacional de Migracion for the Fulbright) in Progreso, but also met my first friend in Yucatán. I look forward to continue working with Gerardo after I settle on my project here.

#Otheradventures #Progreso #July